Strictly Business in St Lucia!

Only those of us on Titus’ boat to the Pitons will know what Strictly Business really means, but the Caribbean humour is a joy to experience!  (and I am not telling!)

Having been to St Lucia twice before, the only two things Alan and I really wanted to do was actually visit the Pitons - last time the road was out, and also dock on the opposite side of the harbour where there is an amazing bar called Rum Therapy.  On our last visit, we only got a drink and went back on board, this time, we intended to spend a good portion of time there!

As luck would have it, both wishes were granted in such spectacular fashion that this day will go down in Graham family history as THE Caribbean experience of all time!

Arriving at Castries, passengers always run the gauntlet of taxi drivers and tour offers.  There were 6 of us now in our group all wanting to see the Pitons.  We really had not factored in a coastal cruise, but when it was offered, it seemed the perfect option.  The other choice is a 2 hour bus drive on very curvy roads.  Even through the rain and clouds, being on a boat won hands down.

Our tour boat!

We went with No Links tours, their website is:  www.gideonwatertours.com  and our Captain was Titus!  This was the best decision and most fun of the whole trip.  I honestly do not see how anything else can follow this.  

Just under 20 people came aboard and we were shown the coast and bays along the way to see the Pitons.  As we headed south from Castries, we were victim to whatever the weather threw at us and sometimes this was stinging rain.  But the downpours did not last long and did not ruin the day. With my boat position, I was able to observe the various ways some people attempted to avoid getting soaked.  Any attempt was pointless really though.

The couple at the very front had rain ponchos similar to what you would wear on Maid of the Mist in Niagara Falls.  What a position for them to be in - absolutely everyone else could watch as they struggled and flapped and almost went airborne.  Once they decided to give up and take the ponchos off a spontaneous round of applause and much laughter erupted.  

The little boat took a left turn into Marigot Bay.  This is a large bay with lots of yachts and gorgeous homes in it, including summer homes owned by Mick Jagger and George Foreman.  This bay was the location of the original Dr Doolittle movie and the Doolittle restaurant there is named after the movie.  

Heading south again, we passed other bays and little fishing villages and fishing boats.  I am surprised and delighted that there remains a bit of unspoiled island life on this popular tourist stop.  We were dropped off at Soufriere, listed as the third largest town on St Lucia, located almost in the shadow of the Pitons.

After being led into a souvenir shop, as is the norm, we were introduced to Keziah, who became what we finally decided was more guard and less guide.  But we always felt safe and she was very nice.  We were shown how one side of the town looks different architecturally due to a huge fire in 1955.  This fire destroyed original French buildings.  What has been rebuilt is still beautiful, but just not as delicate as the surviving original buildings.  These islands changed hands many times, and quite often it was between the French and the British.  But it seems only the French influence in language and architecture has lasted the distance.  

This was a delightful walk through such an unspoiled village.  The people looked amazing, but it felt intrusive to take too many photographs. There were wild chickens and dogs in the village.  No idea how that works!  But Keziah told us the chickens don’t really belong to anyone and even offered to catch us one to take back.  (I believe she was kidding though!)

This was a very laid back visit, with not alot of details provided as to what we were supposed to do and exactly why Keziah stayed with us.  She eventually asked what we would like to do now, I think we had about an hour and a half to spend in Soufriere.  Our answer was Coffee!  Seemed a strange request, but it turned out to the become the highlight of a very special day!  

We ended up at the Zaka Mask and Art Shop.  It looked pretty from the outside and the inside only had 4 tables and 2 rocking chairs.  We were warmly welcomed and got a demonstration of how the coffee beans arrive almost fruit like, about the size of a gooseberry.  We were encouraged to bite one (and it is a pretty good crunch when you do).  Inside were 2 little beans and then the work begins.  I could not catch all the stages in between where our work started, but one of the middle parts of the process is shelling the dried beans, similar but not quite as difficult as shelling pistachio nuts.  Somehow, a bowl of these beans and another bowl of the discarded shells appeared on one of our tables.  We spent the next 40 minutes shelling coffee beans!  And enjoying every minute of this experience!  Who knew you could have so much fun doing something so menial?  

The strange thing is, we actually ordered hot chocolate!  At the time, I did wonder why the owner voiced relief that we did not order coffee because he was running out.  But after being shown the process, I understood.  And the experience of the hot chocolate was fabulous too!  

At Granada when I purchased my little baskets of spices, they came with recipes and one is for hot chocolate.  The recipe is the same as the way the man who gave us the talk about spices explained how to make hot chocolate, but I did not understand this until I experienced it at Zaka’s.  Why was it so confusing?  The first thing you do is take 12 cocoa beans and boil them for about 15 minutes in water.  I believe you need 12 for EACH cup of hot chocolate!  That is what we were told by Zaka's, but the recipe actually calls for one bean each cup.  Zaka put a bay leaf, cinnamon and nutmeg in them too.  Fabulous!

Suddenly it all became clear how good quality chocolate can be so expensive!  

When the hot chocolate was served, it was in  lovely ceramic pots. They add milk before serving and you can add more if needed. Plus you have to put your own sugar in, but this hot chocolate was exquisite.  Sadly, unless you have access to cocoa beans, I don’t think you can try this at home.  

We literally had to be dragged out of Zaka’s and were the last to arrive back at the boat!  Then it was off to the beach for another hour and a half!

Some folks could snorkel if they wanted and I was told there was a coral reef and loads of colourful fish there.  But the Florida girl in me came out and there was no way I was going into that cold water!  Strangely for me, I could have done without going to the beach at all. The Soufriere experience was enough to make this day perfect! 

Arriving back at the ship, we were able to achieve our other St Lucia goal and spent the last remaining shore time - about an hour - at Rum Therapy.  The place was heaving with Ventura passengers.  These folks have the perfect approach to providing the perfect ending to a perfect day!  

Oh, the Pitons!  I forgot to mention the Pitons!  They are beautiful!  They are St Lucia’s most famous landmarks and the first thing you see as you approach the island.  I was up at 6am, not on purpose, but there they were!  You can’t see them from Castries though.  Our information says they are the spines of lava that was thrust up from the craters of 2 volcanoes.  

“A good traveler has no fixed plans and is not intent on arriving.” 
― Laozi